kinetics
06-18-2009, 09:30 PM
Here's my grand contribution to the site.
This is a work in progress.
I'll post some pics and shit as I have them.
Please read ALL of the following if you plan to try an alignment on your own.
EXPECT THIS TO BE VERY TIME CONSUMING, ESPECIALLY FOR THE FIRST TIME.
Once you get the feel for what you're doing, and get a method down, it will speed up considerably.
Feel free to let me know of any mistakes, so I can correct it.
EDIT: Made math section easier to understand.
EDIT: Added pic for line layouts.
Materials:
These are what I suggest you get:
Camber tool : Some thing like THIS (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ECONOMY-CASTER-CAMBER-GAUGE,2699.html)
String : Something relatively light, nylon, whatever. Nothing too heavy. You want to be able to use it on the plumb bob
Plumb Bob
Vinyl or Lenolium Tile : cut into 9x9 squares, minimum
Grease : Any kind will do
Grease Pencil : Something bright colored
Level
Square
Laser Level : Optional, it makes a few things easier
Jack Stands : I'd suggest a minimum of 3. You'll be using them to hang lines
Wrenches and shit
Tape Measure
__________________________________________________ __________________________________
Prep Work:
First, measure your wheelbase, and stance.
Make stacks of tile with layers of grease in between each tile, and place them where your wheels are going to be.
These are going to act like slip plates, so that when you make a change, the tires don't stick, and prevent the wheel from actually moving, and giving a good measurement.
Next, you need to level out your tile stacks.
Doing this will ensure that you're not getting any weird measurements that will throw off your final alignment.
Use a long piece of wood and your level, get all the tiles the same level.
I also suggest making sure the tiles are high enough that you can reach under the car without jacking it up. A few inches should be more than enough, as long as you're willing to lay on the ground.
Pull your car up on the tiles. I suggest pushing it, as the car has a tendancy to spin tiles off if you give it a little too much throttle.
Get on as straight as you can, and center the wheel.
Now you need to find the centerline of your car.
Measure the distance between the same spot on either side of the frame (lower control arm bolt, for instance), and mark the half way point on the frame (or somewhere under the car where you can see it).
Do this both in the front and in the rear, as near the axel line as you can.
Now take some string, and your plum bob, and transfer those marks to the floor.
Use tape or your grease pencil (or whatever) to mark it as accurately as you can.
(Alternatively, you can make the marks on the bottom of the car before putting it on the tiles, and transfer them afterwards)
Using a length of string, and something heavy like jackstands (or better yet, your laser level), run a line through the centerline marks you just made, make
centerline marks ~10" beyond the nose and tail of the car.
From there, use your square to run another line across the new marks (you'll need a 2nd laser level, or another piece of string, so you know you're on), and make marks ~8-10" outside of the wheels.
We'll call this the toe-line.
If you'd like, you can also use this method to make marks closer to the wheels, rather than the front or rear of the car.
Run your line through your newest marks, and make marks closer to the wheelbase.
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/6789/topviewe.jpg
You should have all of the reference marks you need to take measurements for toe as related to the true center of the car.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
Alignment:
Now you're ready to start aligning.
Go into this knowing that any time you adjust anything, it's going to throw other things off.
For instance, when I did my car, after I corrected the camber, my toe was off by nearly 2"!
After tweaking the toe to be correct, I had to go back, and fine tune the camber again, then the toe again, until everything ended up on.
Also, double check that you're steering wheel doesn't wander off center, occasionally, while you adjust things.
Expect to take a decent amount of time, and a lot of re-checking your work.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Camber:
Start with your camber.
If you're using the tool I linked, you'll need to do 2 things:
1) Pop off your center caps
2) Zero in the tool
The budget camber tools aren't dialed in to exactly 0*, but an easy fix is to dial it in yourself with a level.
Level your level (duh), but the camber tool on top, and twist the dial until it's perfectly level.
You can make a mark if you'd like, but they tend to drift a little as you use them.
More expensive tools will be larger, and attach to the lip of the rim, usually, and are more accurate.
More expensive, still, are the digital ones.
If you're looking to 0* your camber, it's pretty easy.
Use your square and level to put the camber tool perfectly verticle on inside the center cap area. It should stick to the axel or axel nut.
Loosen up your camber adjuster, and slowly adjust the wheel until it's showing dead level on the camber tool.
In my experience, the bubble level in the camber tool is a bit slower to respond than one in a normal level, so you may want to stop just short, and give it a second to catch up.
I also suggest setting the wheels to negative camber first (which they probably already are, if the car's been lowered), since you can let the weight of the car move the wheel, and stop it when it's within spec.
Keep in mind, if you loosen too much, the wheel will change spec pretty quickly, so be gentle, and move slow, to avoid redoing work.
Repeat for the other side. Then double check both sides, and readjust if needed.
Move to the back, and do the same. Recheck all four wheels.
If you're looking to do a more positive/negative camber setting, note the notches on the dial.
Usually they're 1/4* each (I believe). Remember that you likely have a new 0 setting, so the notches aren't going to be true 1/4*, and you'll have to adjust accordingly.
Just set the tool to the camber you want, and follow the above proceedure (adjust the wheel until level on the tool).
Once you're happy that you're set for camber, move to the toe.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toe:
An important thing to note: NO car runs 0 toe.
Typically, rear wheel drive cars will toe in somewhat, and front wheel drive will toe out somewhat (or at least toe in less).
This is because of how the wheels are getting power.
Front wheel drive wheels will pull forward, and drag the car, thus creating their own toe in under acceleration.
Rear wheel drive will push the front wheels, thus creating their own toe out.
CHECK FOR WHAT SPECS YOU SHOULD USE FOR YOUR CAR!!!
You car WILL drive like shit if your toe is off too much.
To start, make sure your steering wheel is still centered.
Using your square, measure the distance from the toe line to the front edge of your rim.
This is one instance where the string setup on jackstands is going to be easier than using the laser level, since you'll want to measure the very front/rear edges of the rim (which is hard to do by marks on the floor).
Then check from the toe line to the rear of the rim, the same way.
Note the difference. (ex: if the front measures 9", and the rear measures 8.5", the difference is .5").
About half of your difference is what will be needed to change on your tie rod to dial in to 0 toe.
This is because as you are pushing out the rear w/the tie rod, the front is also moving in.
However, we know we won't be using 0* toe...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here comes the math (and let's hope you were good at geometry in school).
This picture assumes the passenger front wheel
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8618/toeyf.jpg
[EDITED FOR SIMPLICITY]
Basically, take your difference, divided by your wheel width, divided by .017.
That will give you your angle/degree of toe.
With the example of a difference of .5", and a 15" rim, we get the following:
.5 / 15 = .033
.033 / .017 = 1.9
So a difference of .5" is about 2* of toe.
You can easily do this backwards to find out what difference you need to get the degree of toe you want.
Take the degree, multiply by .017, and multiply by the rim width.
So for 4*
4 x .017 = .068
.068 x 15 = 1.02
So, you need to have a difference of about 1.02" to get 4* of toe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK, so back to the work...
Loosen the nut, spin in/out the amout needed (~1/2 your difference), and recheck the measurements. When it's on, tighen the nut back down, and do the otherside.
After you've done both sides, recheck the toe for both sides, and readjust if needed.
Then recheck your camber, and readjust if needed.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
That's really about it.
Most cars don't have adjustable caster, and most people wouldn't advise to tinker with caster anyways.
So forget it.
This is a work in progress.
I'll post some pics and shit as I have them.
Please read ALL of the following if you plan to try an alignment on your own.
EXPECT THIS TO BE VERY TIME CONSUMING, ESPECIALLY FOR THE FIRST TIME.
Once you get the feel for what you're doing, and get a method down, it will speed up considerably.
Feel free to let me know of any mistakes, so I can correct it.
EDIT: Made math section easier to understand.
EDIT: Added pic for line layouts.
Materials:
These are what I suggest you get:
Camber tool : Some thing like THIS (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/ECONOMY-CASTER-CAMBER-GAUGE,2699.html)
String : Something relatively light, nylon, whatever. Nothing too heavy. You want to be able to use it on the plumb bob
Plumb Bob
Vinyl or Lenolium Tile : cut into 9x9 squares, minimum
Grease : Any kind will do
Grease Pencil : Something bright colored
Level
Square
Laser Level : Optional, it makes a few things easier
Jack Stands : I'd suggest a minimum of 3. You'll be using them to hang lines
Wrenches and shit
Tape Measure
__________________________________________________ __________________________________
Prep Work:
First, measure your wheelbase, and stance.
Make stacks of tile with layers of grease in between each tile, and place them where your wheels are going to be.
These are going to act like slip plates, so that when you make a change, the tires don't stick, and prevent the wheel from actually moving, and giving a good measurement.
Next, you need to level out your tile stacks.
Doing this will ensure that you're not getting any weird measurements that will throw off your final alignment.
Use a long piece of wood and your level, get all the tiles the same level.
I also suggest making sure the tiles are high enough that you can reach under the car without jacking it up. A few inches should be more than enough, as long as you're willing to lay on the ground.
Pull your car up on the tiles. I suggest pushing it, as the car has a tendancy to spin tiles off if you give it a little too much throttle.
Get on as straight as you can, and center the wheel.
Now you need to find the centerline of your car.
Measure the distance between the same spot on either side of the frame (lower control arm bolt, for instance), and mark the half way point on the frame (or somewhere under the car where you can see it).
Do this both in the front and in the rear, as near the axel line as you can.
Now take some string, and your plum bob, and transfer those marks to the floor.
Use tape or your grease pencil (or whatever) to mark it as accurately as you can.
(Alternatively, you can make the marks on the bottom of the car before putting it on the tiles, and transfer them afterwards)
Using a length of string, and something heavy like jackstands (or better yet, your laser level), run a line through the centerline marks you just made, make
centerline marks ~10" beyond the nose and tail of the car.
From there, use your square to run another line across the new marks (you'll need a 2nd laser level, or another piece of string, so you know you're on), and make marks ~8-10" outside of the wheels.
We'll call this the toe-line.
If you'd like, you can also use this method to make marks closer to the wheels, rather than the front or rear of the car.
Run your line through your newest marks, and make marks closer to the wheelbase.
http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/6789/topviewe.jpg
You should have all of the reference marks you need to take measurements for toe as related to the true center of the car.
__________________________________________________ ____________________________________
Alignment:
Now you're ready to start aligning.
Go into this knowing that any time you adjust anything, it's going to throw other things off.
For instance, when I did my car, after I corrected the camber, my toe was off by nearly 2"!
After tweaking the toe to be correct, I had to go back, and fine tune the camber again, then the toe again, until everything ended up on.
Also, double check that you're steering wheel doesn't wander off center, occasionally, while you adjust things.
Expect to take a decent amount of time, and a lot of re-checking your work.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Camber:
Start with your camber.
If you're using the tool I linked, you'll need to do 2 things:
1) Pop off your center caps
2) Zero in the tool
The budget camber tools aren't dialed in to exactly 0*, but an easy fix is to dial it in yourself with a level.
Level your level (duh), but the camber tool on top, and twist the dial until it's perfectly level.
You can make a mark if you'd like, but they tend to drift a little as you use them.
More expensive tools will be larger, and attach to the lip of the rim, usually, and are more accurate.
More expensive, still, are the digital ones.
If you're looking to 0* your camber, it's pretty easy.
Use your square and level to put the camber tool perfectly verticle on inside the center cap area. It should stick to the axel or axel nut.
Loosen up your camber adjuster, and slowly adjust the wheel until it's showing dead level on the camber tool.
In my experience, the bubble level in the camber tool is a bit slower to respond than one in a normal level, so you may want to stop just short, and give it a second to catch up.
I also suggest setting the wheels to negative camber first (which they probably already are, if the car's been lowered), since you can let the weight of the car move the wheel, and stop it when it's within spec.
Keep in mind, if you loosen too much, the wheel will change spec pretty quickly, so be gentle, and move slow, to avoid redoing work.
Repeat for the other side. Then double check both sides, and readjust if needed.
Move to the back, and do the same. Recheck all four wheels.
If you're looking to do a more positive/negative camber setting, note the notches on the dial.
Usually they're 1/4* each (I believe). Remember that you likely have a new 0 setting, so the notches aren't going to be true 1/4*, and you'll have to adjust accordingly.
Just set the tool to the camber you want, and follow the above proceedure (adjust the wheel until level on the tool).
Once you're happy that you're set for camber, move to the toe.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Toe:
An important thing to note: NO car runs 0 toe.
Typically, rear wheel drive cars will toe in somewhat, and front wheel drive will toe out somewhat (or at least toe in less).
This is because of how the wheels are getting power.
Front wheel drive wheels will pull forward, and drag the car, thus creating their own toe in under acceleration.
Rear wheel drive will push the front wheels, thus creating their own toe out.
CHECK FOR WHAT SPECS YOU SHOULD USE FOR YOUR CAR!!!
You car WILL drive like shit if your toe is off too much.
To start, make sure your steering wheel is still centered.
Using your square, measure the distance from the toe line to the front edge of your rim.
This is one instance where the string setup on jackstands is going to be easier than using the laser level, since you'll want to measure the very front/rear edges of the rim (which is hard to do by marks on the floor).
Then check from the toe line to the rear of the rim, the same way.
Note the difference. (ex: if the front measures 9", and the rear measures 8.5", the difference is .5").
About half of your difference is what will be needed to change on your tie rod to dial in to 0 toe.
This is because as you are pushing out the rear w/the tie rod, the front is also moving in.
However, we know we won't be using 0* toe...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here comes the math (and let's hope you were good at geometry in school).
This picture assumes the passenger front wheel
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8618/toeyf.jpg
[EDITED FOR SIMPLICITY]
Basically, take your difference, divided by your wheel width, divided by .017.
That will give you your angle/degree of toe.
With the example of a difference of .5", and a 15" rim, we get the following:
.5 / 15 = .033
.033 / .017 = 1.9
So a difference of .5" is about 2* of toe.
You can easily do this backwards to find out what difference you need to get the degree of toe you want.
Take the degree, multiply by .017, and multiply by the rim width.
So for 4*
4 x .017 = .068
.068 x 15 = 1.02
So, you need to have a difference of about 1.02" to get 4* of toe.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
OK, so back to the work...
Loosen the nut, spin in/out the amout needed (~1/2 your difference), and recheck the measurements. When it's on, tighen the nut back down, and do the otherside.
After you've done both sides, recheck the toe for both sides, and readjust if needed.
Then recheck your camber, and readjust if needed.
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
That's really about it.
Most cars don't have adjustable caster, and most people wouldn't advise to tinker with caster anyways.
So forget it.