boostdelinquent
03-24-2011, 01:30 PM
This is my how to on removing the casting mark edges on the intake and exhaust ports. It'll help the flow some but a good valve job will help you feel the real benefits from this. Anyhow this is how I do it. If anyone has some additional info to add feel free to.
Here's what you'll need to do this:
Intake Manifold Gasket
Magic Marker (any color that stands out)
Dremel or similar tool for grinding
Carbide Bit ( I just use the coarse sanding drums)
Step 1: Clean off the intake and exhaust flange surface on the cylinder head.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject001.jpg
Step 2: Install gasket onto studs
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject020.jpg
Step 3: Once the gasket is secured in place take the marker and trace where there is still metal showing within the ports.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject003.jpg
Step 4: Once you have marked the ports, it should look something like this.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject021.jpg
Step 5: Take your Dremel or whatever tool you are using and start removing the material inside the port until you have ground away the material that was marked.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject022.jpg
I hope this helps. If ya'll have any questions or comments feel free to chime in. This covers most of it but to see the full gains, I recommend getting a valve job and oversized valves. You also should not go too crazy w/ the porting otherwise the intake charge will lose velocity.
BTW, when portmatching the intake manifold to the head and the head to the exhaust manifold, it also helps to make leave a slight step from the intake manifold into the head and from the head into the exhaust manifold. These steps, normally referred to as anti-reversion steps help to prevent the backwards flow of air during valve overlap. Here's a pic my friend Remoer had posted up in a different thread. The small step this creates.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c356/remoer/exhaust/portmatch.jpg
I also want to mention you must have your head hot tanked after you do this otherwise little metal shavings can get into the valve guides and other areas of the engine. My valves are still installed in the pic however I was just getting started and later removed them when I ported the bowls.
Here's what you'll need to do this:
Intake Manifold Gasket
Magic Marker (any color that stands out)
Dremel or similar tool for grinding
Carbide Bit ( I just use the coarse sanding drums)
Step 1: Clean off the intake and exhaust flange surface on the cylinder head.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject001.jpg
Step 2: Install gasket onto studs
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject020.jpg
Step 3: Once the gasket is secured in place take the marker and trace where there is still metal showing within the ports.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject003.jpg
Step 4: Once you have marked the ports, it should look something like this.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject021.jpg
Step 5: Take your Dremel or whatever tool you are using and start removing the material inside the port until you have ground away the material that was marked.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/boostdeliquent/H23%20Build/jakesengineproject022.jpg
I hope this helps. If ya'll have any questions or comments feel free to chime in. This covers most of it but to see the full gains, I recommend getting a valve job and oversized valves. You also should not go too crazy w/ the porting otherwise the intake charge will lose velocity.
BTW, when portmatching the intake manifold to the head and the head to the exhaust manifold, it also helps to make leave a slight step from the intake manifold into the head and from the head into the exhaust manifold. These steps, normally referred to as anti-reversion steps help to prevent the backwards flow of air during valve overlap. Here's a pic my friend Remoer had posted up in a different thread. The small step this creates.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c356/remoer/exhaust/portmatch.jpg
I also want to mention you must have your head hot tanked after you do this otherwise little metal shavings can get into the valve guides and other areas of the engine. My valves are still installed in the pic however I was just getting started and later removed them when I ported the bowls.