lc-1 install

[m0uaman]

anybody install their wide band different from me? mines doesn't work...it always flashes 7.4

LC-1 Side: - Car Side:

Red - A25 - power wire

Blue - Wired to chassis

White - A26 - ecu ground

Yellow - D14 - o2 sensor wire

Brown - DB Gauge

Black - Wired to chassis

[Charlie Moua]

did you buy it used or new?
didn't it come with instructions?

if not did you check innovates website or read their forms?

[inspector01]

I installed my LC-1 and it worked good for a couple of days, than I went to reprogram the outputs and the gauge quit working so I gave up and put it in a box and haven't looked at it since, and just used a different WB. I may need to try and get it working again. They are a bit of a PITA IMO.

[m0uaman]

i traded for it...he showed me that it worked in his car before he pulled it...i have the manual but thats confusing too...the dude doesnt remember how he wired it...

anyone else?

[Charlie Moua]

send email to innovatemotorsport

those guys are pretty helpful, just tell them that you ARE the orginal owner.
or else they'll brush you off

[inspector01]

send email to innovatemotorsport

those guys are pretty helpful, just tell them that you ARE the orginal owner.
or else they'll brush you off

I tried emailing them with some questions once about something I was looking to buy, never heard a word back. I even mentioned I had 2 of their widebands already.

[TomO]

Read This Post First (http://www.ht-archive.net/showthread.php?t=2858425)
And then this:
5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source.
Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and
connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug,
and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in
unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please
see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.

6. Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2) can be connected
to the analog inputs of other devices such as data loggers, ECUs, or gauges. If either one or
both of these wires are not being used isolate and tape the wire(s) out of the way. The default
analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one is 1.1V = 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. This is
a simulated narrowband signal. Analog output two is setup as 0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39
AFR. Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same
grounding location of the analog input’s ground. Refer to chapter 2.2 for recommended
wiring schematics.

7. Optionally connect a momentary push-button switch between ground and the BLACK
calibration wire. Please refer to section 2.1.
Note: The use of the calibration wire is not necessary if the LC-1 is connected to Innovate
Motorsports’ XD-16 digital gauge. If the wire is not are not being used, isolate and tape the
wire out of the way.


You have the calibration wire grounded right now, so the unit is trying to constantly calibrate thus giving you the flashing number. Fix it and follow the instructions and you should be set. Or just give me the LC-1 and I'll use it ;)

[m0uaman]

^ make me a reasonable offer on it...might get a AEM wideband instead

[Charlie Moua]

I tried emailing them with some questions once about something I was looking to buy, never heard a word back. I even mentioned I had 2 of their widebands already.

same here... lol
i was asking them when they were going to get a oil temp gauge since they have a water temp gauge already but no response.

the following week I emailed them that i was a customer and had issues with WB and i got response back the next day....

Poor customer service IMHO. Stuff like that should not be tolorated in any industry and let good companies with good customer serivce thrive. By the time the see the drop in sales and make the correlation, it'll be too late. lol

oh well.
I'm happy with my ngk unit i bought from T1.

[TomO]

^ make me a reasonable offer on it...might get a AEM wideband instead

I offer you $50 since you've been running it in calibration mode while it wasn't in a free air environment, thus damaging the sensor.

What gauge are you using with it?

[m0uaman]

im using the db gauge...sorry i cant sell it for $50...let me break it down retail value

wideband with o2, cd, instructions, and datalog cable = $138
db gauge red = $63

its like around $200 but since its used and sensor could be damaged i will sell it to you for $80 with gauge and everything

[eastbethelboy]

i cant remember where but i think i hook mines up to d10 with eld disable under crome pro.
i believe you also have to calibrate your o2 gauge to read the correct format or somthing.. I have a aem so i couldnt really tell you too..

[Charlie Moua]

even if the sensor is damaged, a new sensor at autozone is less than $48 or something.....
don't try and rip off a fellow mnhonda member.... jk